September 27th: SUP Surfing: No Wing

No wind today either.
Enoshima in the morning was calm, and the sea surface was too peaceful.
"Should I go around Enoshima on SUP, or should I go surfing (wave riding) ---"
I consulted with the instructor, but in this late summer with almost no wind, the choices were limited.
Truly, summer in Enoshima is 'windless'.
If this continues, the autumn winds will be far away.

However, when I went out to the beach, an unexpected scene spread before me.
Beautifully organized waves were quietly coming in and receding.
And to my surprise,
There wasn't a single person from the surfing school that had been overflowing with people in summer.
There was no one riding the waves either.
It was as if the sea was telling me, 'Today is the sea just for you.'
Without hesitation, I chose surfing.

Today's lesson was a step forward.
Without relying on the instructor, I chose the waves myself,
judged the timing myself,
and paddled with my own judgment to ride the waves.
Easier said than done.
The shape of the wave, its speed, the angle it pushes from ---
Reading them is harder than I thought.
However, as I challenged myself again and again,
I gradually started to get the hang of it.
My body began to synchronize with the movement and breath of the waves,
and finally, I experienced several moments where I thought, 'I caught it!'

Even so, just like last time,
I only rode in a simple straight line, standing perpendicular to the wave.
Still, the wave I caught with my own effort,
gives me a special kind of joy.

At the end of the lesson, the instructor said,
"You can practice SUP surfing by yourself now."
Hearing those words, I silently did a little fist pump in my heart.
So, after the lesson, I stayed alone and continued practicing.
Again and again, I waited for waves, rode them, fell, and challenged myself again.
In between, I went out offshore on the SUP and practiced balancing while paddling.
Offshore, quiet time flowed by,
and my mind calmed down with the sound of the waves.
A pure sea time, without digital distractions or noise ---
It was truly the best digital detox.

I also received the next assignment from the instructor.
"Next time, let's practice riding the waves sideways, like regular surfing."
That was welcome news, but
deep down, I still thought:

--- Next, I want to do Wing (cry).

Since it was still warm, there were many people remaining in the sea even in the evening.