September 13th: SUP Wave Riding; No Wing

My goal is clear.
To someday freely ride the waves with Wing-foil,
running, jumping, and becoming one with the wind as if flying over the sea surface.
To achieve that, the ability to read waves and acquire the sensation of riding them is essential.
Today was an important day for that purpose.

From morning, the sea was calm, with only about 2m/s of wind.
It was a gentle breeze, almost still.
The instructor suggested,
"Wing is not possible today. How about we do a SUP wave riding lesson?"
Honestly, I had a strong desire to master Wing-foil quickly, but
with no wind, there was nothing to do but what was possible.
And above all, learning about waves
is also an important step towards the ultimate goal.

This was my first proper wave riding lesson on a SUP.
When I previously practiced longboarding by myself in Hawaii,
no matter how many times I tried, I couldn't catch a wave; I was just pushed back by the sea.
But today was different.
The instructor identified the waves and taught me the timing.
The speed of paddling, body posture, direction of gaze—
I was meticulously guided through all of it.
And finally, the moment I felt the power of the wave on my back,
the SUP glided forward.
It was only for a brief moment, but
I couldn't help but smile at the sensation of gliding across the water.

Even though it's called wave riding, it was in a stance with both feet together, perpendicular to the wave,
unlike the diagonal riding of so-called surfers.
Nevertheless, catching a wave by myself,
that sensation of being propelled forward by the power of the sea—
It was fresh and surprisingly enjoyable.
Indeed, this is the first step towards wave riding with Wing-foil.

I also learned the tricks for stability.
Standing in the center of the board makes it easy to balance, but
when riding a wave, the nose digs in and submerges.
"You need to stand 20 centimeters further back," said the instructor.
With that one sentence, my world changed.
How to identify waves, the timing to stand up, how to use the paddle—
Each one was a continuous series of new discoveries.

And the scenery of the sea had also changed a little.
The yellow buoys that had marked off the swimming area until now
had finally been removed.
The boundary line that I had felt so confined by disappeared,
and the sea looked as if it was connected as one.
Just that alone,
made me feel broad and free even inside my heart.

Although there was no wind today,
the waves taught me.
"The power to move forward" is not just the wind—
it properly exists within myself too.

The beach hut was demolished, but the timber is still there. But since the buoys are gone, I feel free.